4. Tchoukatou

The tree filled horizon was quickly turning grey. Clouds clashed together and flashes of lightening zapped through the dusty sky.  The downpour began, pounding the roof of the hundred some market stalls at the Marché Des Sombas in Parakou, Benin.  We sat there, squash bowl in hand, watching the waterfalls of water cascade off the roof of the stall. 

Somba, often considered a slander, is what many people call the 4 or five ethnic groups found in the northeastern Attacora region of Benin. This region is known for it’s old granite mountains, waterfalls, majestic wildlife, and its delicious booze.

Women work hard here.  “Meals from scratch” are a reality that few westerns would understand. For many women the closest thing to a food processor is a millstone coupled with significant forearm strength.  To add to their already labor-intense existence, women take on the task of brewing Tchoukatou. It’s not uncommon to walk into a compound in northern Benin and find a woman using a giant spoon to stir a 10-gallon caldron on a wood fire.

She’s already been on the project for three days. She dried the millet, soaked it, let it germinate, milled it, and now she’s boiling it. After, the fermentation will take place, and those who count themselves lucky will be sitting on a log in a market stall, sipping the beverage out of a calabash bowl.

The Marché des Sombas has about 100 different Tchoukatou stalls. You can’t try every brew so you have to discriminate.  Observe and assume that the most crowded stalls have the best booze.  Have a seat and count on quickly becoming friends with the crowd.  They will respect you for your bravo.

Just like a gourmet restaurant will offer you a taste of the wine before you accept, the Tchoukatou Tanti will give you a splash of Tchouk.  If it’s early in the day, the drink might be sweeter; later it might be sour. Ideally it should be somewhere in the middle, and taste a bit stronger than beer.   A bit of active fermentation bubbling up is a good sign. If it’s too strong, feel free to mix a little sucrerie, the sweet, non-fermented version of the drink. 

Don’t like the brew you chose?  This is your chance to walk. If you’re a fan,  it’s time to order up. Order for 100 francs, and you’ll fill up your bowl. This will give you a nice buzz. Another 100 francs, and you’re well on your way.  Another 100, and you might need help from one of your new Beninese friends to bring you back to your residence.